For almost half a century it has been my family tradition to take a Sunday Drive. Destination off the beaten track.One of our best-loved destinations is Ocean Beach on the edge of Palliser Bay. The departure point for Ocean Beach is Featherston although it can be reached by taking the Barrage route across the bottom end of Lake Wairarapa.
Before you leave Featherston check the three F’s: food, fuel and facilities. There are no petrol stations, or cafes at Ocean Beach, and the public toilets (although superb!) really require you to have a 4 wheel drive. Don’t let this deter you. Fill up and take the turn to’ Ocean beach 40 kilometres off State Highway 2 at the Rimutaka end of Featherston.
On your left are magnificent views of Lake Wairarapa lapping the farmland which is grazed sedately by rotund dairy cows and pukeko. Cabbage and windswept Ti trees abound reminiscent of Dr Seuss’s fields of snide.
The lake is so shallow that in summer it is possible in some places, to walk from one side to the other. Wairarapa means, ‘glistening waters’ and as well as regal swans the lake is home to plentiful eels, some rare.
Just past Pounui Homestead, which has guest accommodation, you’ll get your first glimpse across to Lake Ferry on the shores of Lake Onoke, the Aorangi range silhouetted behind. Here a gravel road to your left takes you on to the spit which runs for 3 kilometres between lake and sea.
Near the far end of this quiet scenic road, wind up the short hill to feast on the sparkling turquoise of Palliser Bay, overseen by the mountains of the South Island floating in the distance. A short section of gravel road slows you down enough to let you enjoy the view of Wharekauhau Lodge, voted the World’s Best Lodge in 2008 by Conde Naste Traveller. Their entrance incongruously a gravel track, is at the bottom of the steep descent to the sea.
In front of you is Ocean Beach. Pull in anywhere on the side of the slate grey sand, this is fisherman’s dreamtime. Throw in a line and reel in a red cod or beach comb for stones or old punga logs brought down by the gin clear streams gurgling from the Rimutakas that rise spectacularly to one side, clothed in prehistoric khaki camouflage. Sit on a driftwood monster and listen to the sea breathe. Watch the black backed gulls play in the air currents or hear the plovers busy squabbling in the maram grass.
Leave your vehicle and wander along in front of the most remarkable assortment of baches, maimais, huts and cribs which are part of the very essence of Ocean Beach. Built under the shelter of protecting cliffs these retreats were erected eons ago willy nilly on Public land. They can never be sold but many have been allowed to remain for the lifetime of their owners or until 2050 whichever is earliest. They are iconic kiwi dwellings built haphazardly out of iron, wood, found or foraged items, mismatched but utterly compelling. Painted aqua, yellow, green, red and all the hues between.
If you have a four wheel drive carry on around the bay to Corner Creek. Here is a dear wee camping ground provided by DOC with beautifully clean loos and toilet paper! Astonishingly it is free to stay here, nestled among native tress and snuggled into the side of the hills which rise steeply behind it. This is the South-eastern entrance to the Rimutaka forest park. Carry on past this and you will reach private land, but just before that stop to inhale the view back to Ocean Beach. You may never leave.
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